Knitwear Designer Paula Hian Launches Fall/Winter 2016 Collection

Lookbook Images photographed by Hugo Aturi/Provided by the Designer

Fashion designer Paula Hian has launched her Fall/Winter 2016 Knitwear Collection, which she describes as “graphic, bold and textured; either toned down and in tailored form or jazzed up for more dramatic fashion.” The Paula Hian Collection, manufactured in France, is knitted in viscose/Lycra and novelty cotton/silk blends made from Italian yarns.patricia_renee_-graphic

Miss Hian’s design philosophy comes into full bloom when “when color, shape and texture can be combined with modern style in a timeless way.” A lover of looking put-together, she wears her own designs and finds a kinship with women who refuse to become a slave to the trends. She designs for the independent minded woman who thinks on her own and has her own sense of style. The eloquent statement she makes with her clothes is perfect for someone who has always seen style as the best way to speak to the world without words.

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Paula Hian 2016 Fall/Winter Collection – Anais Jacket with Lucie Dress

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Paula Hian 2016 Fall/Winter Collection – Jane Jacket with Manon Skirt

Although she has been in the fashion design business for over fifteen years, her evolution into knitwear has been a labor of love, as well as one of necessity. As she recalls, “It really began with the fabrics. I would always see the same fabrics from the same textile mills that were nice, but not necessarily what I was looking for or didn’t fit the designs I would see in my head for the season. I kept thinking there had to be a way to make my own materials and really engineer my designs and materials how I would visualize them and then, in 2010, Voila!!, I discovered a knitwear factory in France as a place where I could do that and I felt reborn! With knitting, I see limitless possibilities for my designs.

For Fall/Winter 2016, the black and white knit tweeds and abstract plaids are intended to look crisp and soft at the same time -“to reflect a feminine/menswear vibe I am looking to portray. I feel this should be a welcome change for transition and fall 2016.

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Paula Hian 2016 Fall/Winter Collection – Christiane Dress

She has also continued to develop interesting knitwear materials that resemble wovens. “I created the embroidered soutache material for the killer boardroom Patricia /Renee Suit. Either in black/black or navy/black. And I dreamed up a lightweight herringbone to mix with double faced jacquard plaid to pleat into the Emily dress or combined it with solid double faced black sleeves to create the Maryse jacket. This herringbone tweed looks staid in black and white and then heats up when knitted in electric blue and juxtaposed against the black blocks of color.

The colorways in the collection run the spectrum from black and navy to azure blue, poppy and electric blue into grey and tonal grey. “I see these colors and the mixtures of them as ‘Paula neutrals’…there to cleanse the palate. I am not a beige person- ever. Rarely pastels. These colors feel fall 16 to me rather than the browns and more traditional autumn-looking shades. The touches of grey I feel gave it the fall edge. And with white to brighten all up.” Continue reading

Nearly 700,000 Swarovski Crystals Hit The Runway During New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 Shows

Runway Images Photographed by Dan Lecca

Backstage Images Photographed by Eli Schmidt

Swarovski Collective designers Creatures of the Wind, Tome and Rosie Assoulin showcased their Spring/Summer 2017 collections featuring over 575,000 Swarovski crystals this most recent New York Fashion Week. In the first season of collaboration for 2017 collections, the Swarovski Collective designers received financial support as well as the opportunity to experiment with Swarovski’s extraordinary crystal range.

Swarovski Collective Logo

Swarovski Collective Logo (PRNewsFoto/Swarovski Collective)

Founded in 1999 following Nadja Swarovski‘s collaboration with the late Alexander McQueen and the late Isabella Blow, the Swarovski Collective encourages emerging and established designers to explore the creative boundaries of crystal use and craftsmanship. The latest edition of the Swarovski Collective program spans New York, London, Paris and Milan fashion weeks, offering the designers year-long financial and crystal product support, plus the chance to win the annual Swarovski Collective Prize, the winner of which will be announced in May 2017.

Creatures of the Wind: Runway Show on Thursday, September 8 at 46 W 24th Street

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Backstage at The Creatures of the Wind Spring/Summer 2017 Runway Show on Thursday, September 8 at 46 W 24th Street. (Photo Credit: Eli Schmidt)

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Backstage at The Creatures of the Wind Spring/Summer 2017 Runway Show on Thursday, September 8 at 46 W 24th Street. (Photo Credit: Eli Schmidt)

Creatures of the Wind‘s collection, titled “Angel,” was inspired by ideas of polished beauty and the concept of the angel as an idealized entity, a representation of detached perfection, and a play on the use of ‘angel’ in pop music from the 1950s. Hand-embroidered Swarovski crystal appliques were developed from Victorian mourning jewelry playing off a custom lace pattern and floral print that were used to create a visually dense, optical illusion of layering. Sew-on stones were also blended into patterns, demonstrating crystal use as a design component rather than strictly as an embellishment.

SS17 CREATURES OF THE WIND

Creatures of The Wind Spring/Summer 2017 Runway show (Photo credit: Dan Lecca)

SS17 CREATURES OF THE WIND

Creatures of The Wind Spring/Summer 2017 Runway show (Photo credit: Dan Lecca)

SS17 CREATURES OF THE WIND

Creatures of The Wind Spring/Summer 2017 Runway show (Photo credit: Dan Lecca)

SS17 CREATURES OF THE WIND

Creatures of The Wind Spring/Summer 2017 Runway show (Photo credit: Dan Lecca)

Each season is an exercise in recontextualization, and this season we chose to approach the crystal application through a psychedelic exploration of 1950s pop music. As with every other component that goes into the making of the collection – fabric, silhouette, color, texture, treatments – each season brings the challenge of making these components new, relevant, and beautiful. It’s a constant challenge to move further than the season before. With Swarovski, specifically, it’s about using the crystals in a new way, ideally proposing something that hasn’t been previously explored in crystal.” – Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters of Creatures of the Wind

Tome: Runway Show on Sunday, September 11 at The Dock, Skylight at Moynihan Station

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Backstage at The Tome Spring/Summer 2017 Runway Show on on Sunday, September 11 at The Dock, Skylight at Moynihan Station. (Photo Credit: Eli Schmidt)

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Backstage at The Tome Spring/Summer 2017 Runway Show on on Sunday, September 11 at The Dock, Skylight at Moynihan Station. (Photo Credit: Eli Schmidt)

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Backstage at The Tome Spring/Summer 2017 Runway Show on on Sunday, September 11 at The Dock, Skylight at Moynihan Station. (Photo Credit: Eli Schmidt)

Drawing inspiration from the optical art illusions of Bridget Riley and the women depicted in the works of Malick Sidibe and photographer Seydou Keita, Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin of Tome used custom hotfix transfer designs and Swarovski crystal fishnet banding to accentuate the geometric patterns in their collection. Continue reading

New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 Shows Report: Betsey Johnson xox Trolls

Betsey Johnson Debuts her Latest Collection of Designs in Collaboration with DreamWorks Animation’s TROLLS

Macy's Presents Fashion's Front Row - Show

NEW YORK, NY – SEPTEMBER 07: Designer Betsey Johnson executing her signature Post-show split at the runway as Macy’s Presents Fashion’s Front Row kicks-off New York Fashion Week at The Theater at Madison Square Garden on September 7, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images for Macy’s)

Betsey Johnson xox Trolls was exclusively unveiled September 7th at the Theater Madison Square Garden at Macy’s Presents Fashion’s Front Row celebration during New York Fashion Week, featuring the must-have (See-Now, Buy-Now) Fall 2016 looks and with performances by Ariana Grande and Flo Rida.

Macy's Presents Fashion's Front Row - Show

NEW YORK, NY – SEPTEMBER 07: Models walk the runway wearing Betsey Johnson as Macy’s Presents Fashion’s Front Row kicks-off New York Fashion Week at The Theater at Madison Square Garden on September 7, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images for Macy’s)

Macy's Presents Fashion's Front Row - Show

NEW YORK, NY – SEPTEMBER 07: Models walk the runway wearing Betsey Johnson as Macy’s Presents Fashion’s Front Row kicks-off New York Fashion Week at The Theater at Madison Square Garden on September 7, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images for Macy’s)

Macy's Presents Fashion's Front Row - Show

NEW YORK, NY – SEPTEMBER 07: Models walk the runway wearing Betsey Johnson as Macy’s Presents Fashion’s Front Row kicks-off New York Fashion Week at The Theater at Madison Square Garden on September 7, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images for Macy’s)

Macy's Presents Fashion's Front Row - Show

NEW YORK, NY – SEPTEMBER 07: Models walk the runway wearing Betsey Johnson as Macy’s Presents Fashion’s Front Row kicks-off New York Fashion Week at The Theater at Madison Square Garden on September 7, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images for Macy’s)

Macy's Presents Fashion's Front Row - Show

NEW YORK, NY – SEPTEMBER 07: Models walk the runway wearing Betsey Johnson as Macy’s Presents Fashion’s Front Row kicks-off New York Fashion Week at The Theater at Madison Square Garden on September 7, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images for Macy’s)

The Betsey Johnson xox Trolls collection features quirky and eclectic pieces that are the perfect fusion of fashion and fun and includes a range of standout accessories, from pens and rings to handbags and hats. The collection will be available exclusively on Macys.com starting September 15th and at select Macy’s stores from and retails between $16 and $140.

Macy's Presents Fashion's Front Row - Show

NEW YORK, NY – SEPTEMBER 07: Models walk the runway wearing Betsey Johnson as Macy’s Presents Fashion’s Front Row kicks-off New York Fashion Week at The Theater at Madison Square Garden on September 7, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images for Macy’s)

Macy's Presents Fashion's Front Row - Show

NEW YORK, NY – SEPTEMBER 07: Models walk the runway wearing Betsey Johnson as Macy’s Presents Fashion’s Front Row kicks-off New York Fashion Week at The Theater at Madison Square Garden on September 7, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images for Macy’s)

New York Spring/Summer 2016 Fashion Week Review: Betsey Johnson Forever!

Runway Images by Dan Lecca/Front Row/Backstage Images by The Billy Farrell Agency

American designer and renowned fashion icon, Betsey Johnson returned to New York Fashion Week on Friday, September 11th to present her Spring/Summer 2016 collection, entitled The Curious Case of Betsey Button was a retrospective commemorating Betsey’s 50 colorful years in the fashion industry.

Backstage at the Spring/Summer 2016 Fashion Show (Photo Credit: The Billy Farrell Agency)

Backstage at the Spring/Summer 2016 Fashion Show (Photo Credit: The Billy Farrell Agency)

The show which was held at The Arc, Skylight at Moynihan Station (a soul-sucking show space, if ever there is any), was divided into six defining moments in Betsey’s career and kicked off with Betsey’s signature prom princesses of the 2000’s, followed by the “flower power” of the late 80’s/early 90’s. Next came late 70’s punk, followed by the “trippy hippy” early 70’s Betsey Johnson for Alley Cat. Rounding out the decades were the mod mavens of 60’s Betsey Johnson for Paraphernalia. Narration from Betsey herself played over each defining era, for a real trip down memory lane.

I have long held the view that, much like Bob Mackie and a select few designers that have shown at NYFW over the years, Miss Johnson’s collections are generally above review. By her own admission, she is not out to change the world (too much) or find a cure for athlete’s foot. (She is, however, a staunch supporter for finding a cure for Breast Cancer.) She is about creating a balance: injecting fun into her life and work, while still taking it seriously, BUT not too serious. Hence the signature cartwheel and split at the end of her shows, the seemingly wild, all-over-the-place but cohesive sense that marks the collections. Above all, she’s an extraordinary woman. It’s no wonder then, that she is one of the legendary women to be featured in Timothy Greenfield-Sanders‘ latest “List” documentary, American Masters: The Women’s List, to air on PBS on September 25th.

Betsey Johnson. Credit: © Timothy Greenfield-Sanders

Betsey Johnson is to be featured in Timothy Greenfield-Saunders‘ American Masters: The Women’s List, a documentary focusing on their individuals’ exceptional achievements, struggles and identities. All trailblazers in their respective fields, these women share their experiences struggling against discrimination and overcoming challenges to make their voices heard and their influence felt. Credit: © Timothy Greenfield-Sanders

The spring/summer 2016 collection, while mainly serving as a retrospective, had a lot going for it in the here and now. It was filled with ideas that would—and will– work for the season and beyond. Those strapless “prom princess” dresses were paired with long sleeve, street-ready metallic tops that a girl could wear with her skinny jeans and be on-trend. The Veronica Lake hair-dos was also an amazing addition to the overall looks. The second segment was made all the more delicious by the colorful corsets that circled the models’ waists.

In the “Mud Club” section, the standout piece was the red/black chevron pantsuit with a black leather bandeau top. Here, seeing nine (mostly blonde) models with semi-severe chignons, looking very much like Linda Evangelista in her 80’s prime, was a jolt but hey, it worked.

The fourth section was noteworthy for the scrimped, straight hair deftly reminiscent of the period. It was like watching (in a good way, of course) Square Pegs (starring a young Sarah Jessica Parker), a television sitcom from the 80’s. The standouts here were the fur-trimmed teacup print jacket (paired with the granny boots), the patchwork jacket with faux fur sleeves and the soft, draping long “Stevie Nicks” long-sleeve dress.

The iconic Max’s Kansas City was a nightclub and restaurant at 213 Park Avenue South, in New York City, which became a gathering spot for musicians, poets, artists and politicians (in essence, everyone who was anyone), in the 1960s and 1970s. It was opened by Mickey Ruskin (1933–1983) in December 1965. Max’s quickly became a hangout of choice for artists and sculptors of the New York School, like John Chamberlain, Robert Rauschenberg, Larry Rivers, Larry Poons, Brice Marden, Bob Neuwirth, Roy Lichtenstein, Donald Judd, Dan Flavin, Richard Serra, Philip Glass, William S. Burroughs, Allen Ginsberg, René Ricard, Willem de Kooning, and Barnett Newman. It was also a favorite hangout of Andy Warhol and his entourage, who dominated the back room, including some of the women represented in this section. It also showed the wide range of style of the time, including the navy polka dot mini with a white Peter Pan collar. Stunning.

2015 marked a year long celebration for Johnson. In addition hitting her 50th year in the industry, Betsey was awarded the CFDA Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award. The party will continue into Holiday 2015 as Johnson releases a limited edition 50th Anniversary Collection which includes dresses, activewear, handbags, shoes, jewelry all in a signature Betsey Johnson print. Continue reading

Fall/Winter 2015 New York Fashion Week: adidas Originals x Kanye West YEEZY SEASON 1

Photography by Kevin Mazur and Theo Wargo/Getty Images for adidas

I don’t want the clothes to be the life. I want the clothes to help the life.” — Kanye West

For Autumn/Winter 2015, Kanye West and adidas Originals has unveiled a bold new proposition: YEEZY SEASON 1, a collection of apparel and footwear that proposes to “cherishes universality and timelessness” at Skylight Clarkson Sq on February 12, 2015 in New York City. Described by West as the world’s first “solutions-based” clothing line, the individual pieces seeks to define a style that matches the relentless pace of contemporary lives.

NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 12: Kanye West on the runway at the adidas Originals x Kanye West YEEZY SEASON 1 fashion show during New York Fashion Week Fall 2015 at Skylight Clarkson Sq on February 12, 2015 in New York City. (Photo by Theo Wargo/Getty Images for adidas)

NEW YORK, NY – FEBRUARY 12: Kanye West on the runway at the adidas Originals x Kanye West YEEZY SEASON 1 fashion show during New York Fashion Week Fall 2015 at Skylight Clarkson Sq on February 12, 2015 in New York City. (Photo by Theo Wargo/Getty Images for adidas)

NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 12: Models walk the runway at the adidas Originals x Kanye West YEEZY SEASON 1 fashion show during New York Fashion Week Fall 2015 at Skylight Clarkson Sq on February 12, 2015 in New York City. (Photo by Theo Wargo/Getty Images for adidas)

NEW YORK, NY – FEBRUARY 12: Models walk the runway at the adidas Originals x Kanye West YEEZY SEASON 1 fashion show during New York Fashion Week Fall 2015 at Skylight Clarkson Sq on February 12, 2015 in New York City. (Photo by Theo Wargo/Getty Images for adidas)

With this collection, West’s goal is to give consumers workable solutions to the ultimate daily question (What should I wear today?) by creating a line of high-quality essentials that can be freely combined in infinite ways—“like Legos,” he says. This means stripped-down, comfortable, and unpretentious clothes for a “modern jet-set couple,” pieces to be worn from the gym to the office to a meeting to the airport and everywhere in between. “I wanted something that felt like New York or Paris or Tokyo or Santa Barbara or Chicago—a worldliness and an ease.

The collection is defined by a silhouette of considered volume—billowing and oversize on top, tight and trim around the bottom—based largely on his personal sense of style. A study in contrasts like street-luxury and vintage-new, the clothing shapes a new modern wardrobe. For men, this includes MA-2 bombers with oversize flap pockets; washed cotton collarless blouson jackets; oversize sweats with distressed edges and worn, puckered hems; and perfect T-shirts in tones of camel, olive, blue-gray, and camouflage. Each piece is intended to be worn by any sex.

The women’s collection, however, clearly and intentionally shapes a feminine silhouette with high-waist, knee-length, body-conscious knit skirts; floor-grazing cotton tube dresses; tightly woven running tees; and stunning crop tops ingeniously crafted from adidas socks. “This is a challenge to where fashion is currently—a new feminine ideal,” West says, explaining the curve-hugging pieces.

For footwear, West and adidas presented further breakthroughs following the highly anticipated launch of the YEEZY Boost. Newly revealed shoes included woven lo-top sneakers for men and suede stilettos and platform snow boots for women—developed in close tandem with adidas’ products team. The designer expresses his gratitude to adidas for its unparalleled technical prowess. He says, “They are a super innovative company that gives artists a platform to create and dream.”

Presented during the Fall/Winter 2015 New York Fashion Week and just before the NBA All-Star Weekend, the show was conceptualized by West in close collaboration with renowned contemporary artist Vanessa Beecroft. Beecroft has shown internationally since 1993 and is known for her innovative performances and unconventional approach to the creation of images and communication (in that her live events are recorded through photography and film). Her works  is said to reside in the gap between art and life and her conceptual approach is most similar to the creation of a live painting.

Upon entering the venue, guests were lead into a dimly lit room, where 9 rows of models stood stoic still. As lights turned on with blinding intensity, each row of models progressed forward, lending the audience a full view of the clothes. Guests including Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Kim Kardashian West, Rihanna, Drake, Justin Bieber, P. Diddy, Kris Jenner, Kendall Jenner, Khloe Kardashian, George Condo, Anna Wintour, Spike Jonze, Russell Simmons, Big Sean, Pete Wentz, Pusha T, A$AP Ferg, Steven Klein, 2Chainz, Cassie, Alexander Wang, Kehinde Wiley, Tom Sachs, Gia Coppola, Travis Scott, A-Trak, Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn, Hailey Baldwin, and adidas athletes John Wall and Von Miller. “Wolves” an unreleased track from West’s forthcoming studio album served as the soundtrack to this fashion spectacle.

(“Wolves” was written by Kanye West, Cashmere Cat, Vic Mensa, Sia, Mike Dean, Noah Goldstein; produced by West, Cashmere Cat, Mike Dean, Noah Goldstein, Plain Pat, with additional contribution from Vic Mensa and Sia)

 

Spring/Summer 2015 New York Fashion Week Report: ELLE Runway Collection by Kohl’s

Photo Credit: Tom Concordia

The ELLE Runway Collection by Kohl’s debuted their Fall 2014 collection at STYLE360 New York Fashion Week. Combining Parisian luxury and New York City Style, the collection consisted of delicate pleated skirts, embellished tops, elegant floral prints and exquisite polka dot patterns. Setting a romantic, whimsical theme with models walking under a frame of Eiffel Tower and front row café tables, guests were made to feel as if they were on the streets of Paris, with each look embodying fashion’s latest trends while still also providing easy to wear apparel for the everyday woman. The collection is available immediately for purchase on Kohls.com.

Photo Credit: Tom Concordia

Photo Credit: Tom Concordia

Photo Credit: Tom Concordia

Photo Credit: Tom Concordia

 

Spring/Summer 2014 Fashion Review: Desigual

For Desigual’s Spring/Summer 2014 Collection, the theme was Mediterranean sunshine, and the happy attitude that the idyllic landscape inspires in its people and culture. Embodied in the brand’s motto of La Vida es Chula, or Life is Cool, the lust for living well, feeling free and dressing expressively was represented with lively colors in florals, tie-dye and stripes capturing the essence of the good life. It was a bright ray of sunshine in what had to be a truly deadly season of shows in New York.

Desigual Spring/Summer Collection (Courtesy: Deborah Hughes)

Desigual Spring/Summer Collection (Courtesy: Deborah Hughes)

Desigual is a casual clothing brand based in Barcelona, Spain, which is noted for its patchwork designs, intense prints, innovative graffiti art and flamboyant splashes of colour. Founded in 1984 by Thomas Meyer, from Switzerland, the company has been led by Manel Adell since 2002, until 2013 and sells men’s, women’s, children’s clothing, accessories and women’s shoes. Desigual is built around the concept that fun and business are not only compatible and complementary, but necessary.

Desigual is an exciting and passionate project involving imaginative people who enjoy every single day!” says Manel Jadraque, Managing Director of Desigual.  Continue reading