Images provided by Karla Otto for Marni
MARNI’s 2013 PRE-FALL/WINTE COLLECTION features clothing suited for the needs and speed of the concrete jungle, with a military attitude filtered through a feminine sensibility. Girls that dressing like boys with an urban and tough manner informs the MARNI WINTER EDITION 2013 COLLECTION.
Precision replaces the need for decoration. Separates being the key trend, the collection is like a system of elements that can be assembled and reassembled according to one’s own whims, calling for individual interpretation.
The essentials look like they were subtracted from a man’s wardrobe: the double breasted blazer and coat; slouchy trousers; the parka; the duffle-coat. Sportswear adds a layer of functionalism, or is sliced into utilitarian detail: a scarf-hood; deep pockets. The zip-up anorak is the contemporary equivalent of an army uniform.
Strictness is subverted through contrasts of tailored and deconstructed, masculine and feminine. Boyish shirts are worn under suits; pleated skirts are paired with sporty blousons; a pair of suit sleeves is attached to a crinkled lining dress; printed sweatshirt tops and skirts have an easy sophistication. Tops foil covered sheepskin jackets and metallic leather pieces are a deliberately outré touch. Fur is used with graphic sensibility and the function to provide warmth: a little cape, a collar, a gilet.
The prints used includes dogstooth, bold stripes and overblown florals. The colour palette is feminine but moody with tones of burgundy, petrol, charcoal and midnight blue are accented with notes of pink, mustard and metallic flashes of copper and gold. Fabrics are firm: twisted wool, technical polyester, cotton gabardine. Utilitarian accessories include double-strap boots, fringed loafers, Chelsea boots and then oversized totes and clutches with embossed dogstooth motifs. Elasticated belts worn around the waist are a quick yet feminine accent ensuring ease of movement.